Irving Penn (1917-2009)

Jean Patchett

I thought I would share a research paper I wrote for my beginning photography class. I've always admired Irving Penn's photography; it was a joy to learn more about this gentle, creative artist.

Irving Penn, Photograph by Bert Stern/Associated Press

Early Life
Irving Penn was born in Plainfield, New Jersey in 1917 and received a degree in advertising design from the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art in 1938. He began his career as an art director for Junior League magazine and later for Saks Fifth Avenue. In 1942 quit his job to pursue painting. After one year in Mexico, he abandoned the effort, concluding he would never be more than a mediocre painter.

Fashion
Upon his return, he was offered to be the stylist for the cover of October 1, 1943 issue of Vogue magazine. He created a still life, featuring an enormous topaz, and was then asked to also photograph the scene. It was Vogue Magazine’s first color cover.

Vogue Magazine’s First Color Cover

October 1, 1943

Thus began his long illustrious photographic career and his fifty-year association with Vogue magazine, where he completed 160 cover assignments.

Lisa Fonssagrives

Lisa Fonssagrives, Vogue UK, January 1950

Wilhelmina Cooper, American Vogue  February 1st,1963..
Image credit

Wilhelmina Cooper, American Vogue February 1st,1964.
Credit:PaperPursuits.

Wilhelmina Cooper, American Vogue April 1st 1965.
Image credit

May 2004 Vogue featuring Nicole Kidman in Christian Lacroix

Click to view large

In 1950, Penn married his favorite model, Lisa Fonssagrives, who was credited with being the first supermodel.

Balenciaga Mantle Coat (Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn)

Paris, 1950 

Lisa Fonssagrives

Lisa Fonssagrives

Penn revolutionized fashion photography. He was a pioneer in creating a clean, simple fashion photographs emphasizing line and silhouette. He favored the studio setting and stripped away all props creating a minimalist look using only simple planes of neutral color as a backdrop. As a testament to his formal training in advertising design, he never forgot that the fashion products must be the star of his photos. Removing all irrelevant objects served to achieve this goal.

The photo used for the April 1, 1950 cover of Vogue, named “The Black and White Idea”, sold for $481,000 at Christie’s Auction House in 1985.

Jean Patchett, April 1, 1950 Vogue Magazine

The photo shows model Jean Patchett from the waist up wearing a black and white ensemble. Penn styled the shot with perfect balance, symmetry and obsessive precision. The backdrop is stark white, giving the greatest contrast possible for the mostly-black silhouette. Each fashion detail is highlighted: the wide-brimmed felt hat, the black neck scarf, and the short sleeves with split cuffs contrast to strike a precise silhouette against the white backdrop. The bird-cage netting and Patchett’s deep red lipstick, which reads black in black & white photos, contrast with her light complexion. Her eyes, looking to her extreme right, reveal the maximum whites, lest they get lost behind the netting. The elbow-length gloves were cropped away for the cover, creating an even stronger contrast. Given how the masthead and text of the cover fits comfortably in the white space without ever detracting from the photo, I’m guessing that Penn retained control over final layout. The overall result is a striking magazine cover that is arresting even if viewed from across the street. I have no doubt the cover generated countless inquiries about each piece of this ensemble.

Next time, Irving Penn's portraiture and still lifes. 

The Third Annual Willow Manor Ball

We have our invitation in hand. I asked my husband, the gentlest Southern gentleman of all, to take me to the Third Annual Willow Manor Ball. He is very happy to be driving the Maserati Quattroporte, carefully chosen by our car-fanatic son.

He thoughtfully made sure that my entire gown, with the coat, made it inside the car. We could have called for a limo, but the prospect of driving this car made him giddy and I couldn’t deny him. We drive past miles and miles of grand properties; which one will be the fabulous Willow Manor?

Is that a giant, dare I say it, willow ball?

I think we have arrived – in every sense of the word!

On our way to the ballroom, we peek into a sideroom, rich with wood paneling. This might be a nice place to take a break later in the evening.

We enter the ballroom. Giant crystal chandeliers illuminate the wood paneling. We see Ken Marten's striking floral creations of Vanda orchids and dogwood branches in glass cylinders at the bars and buffet tables matching the tall floor versions at the entry.

Every table is adorned with this lush jewel-toned centerpiece of hydrangeas, cock’s combs (Celosia), red roses, and leucadendrons by Sue Arran.

I notice, by sheer coincidence, that my attire matches the decor beautifully. What is that you say? You would like to see what I am wearing?

But first, let me show you my undergarments. Pardon me? You would like to skip this step and see my outfit? Please take up your complaints with Lady Ruth, she’s the one who put me up to this. While you are there, you can see what she is wearing to the ball.

Where was I? Ah yes, my unmentionables. Mr. Dior told me “Without foundations there can be no fashion.”

Now I will show you what I'm wearing.

My 1954 vintage outfit was created by genius designer, Christian Dior. Designed during the year of my birth, the red chiffon dress with the Tudor bodice and the matching taffeta coat and belt was instantly appealing to me. Because I had so little time this week, I asked dear Mr. Dior to also accessorize it for me. The matching set of earrings, necklace, and bracelets for both (!) wrists do not overwhelm the ensemble because the red rubies (this is a fantasy, after all) blend in so beautifully. I love my only non-red accessory, the golden dancing shoes. I may actually last more than a dance or two in these.

Speaking of dancing, I must leave you for a few minute because Southern Gent Husband and I would like to take a spin on the dance floor. Michael Buble is singing one of my favorite Henry Mancini songs “Meglo Stasera” from the movie “The Pink Panther”.

Oh my goodness, we can’t leave the dance floor just yet. He’s now singing Van Morrison’s “Moondance”.

I am getting mighty thirsty now. Southern Gent Husband knows just what to bring me: an exotic lychee martini. We both realize that we worked up quite an appetite. As always, Dan McCall Catering has impeccable service and outstanding food. We choose a plate of coq au vin with mashed potatoes…

…and delicious fresh vegetables.

The back wall of the room is lined with the magnificent willow balls like the one we saw in the garden.

We climb into one to savor our food and do some serious people watching. You can view all that we witnessed on Willow’s blog.

Thank you, Willow, for being the most gracious hostess of this grand event. We look forward to attending again next year!

Sources:

• Maserati Quattroporte
• Both giant willow balls by Frances Keenan, first photo from Helen's Manor
• Garden: Hellen's Manor
• Wood-paneled room: Sloane Mansion
• Dogwood and Vanda orchid arrangement: Ken Marten
• Hydrangea, Celosia, rose, leucadendron arrangement: Sue Arran Flowers
• Corset, Red chiffon dress with Tudor bodice and red tafetta coat: Christian Dior, scanned from Dior in Vogue, photos by Clifford Coffn

Pacific International Quilt Festival XVIII – Wearable Art Competition

In my last post on the Pacific International Quilt Festival XVIII, I will show you  some outstanding pieces of the Wearable Art Competition.

“Passing through the Painted Desert” by Judy Mullen was a marvel with the sunrise neckline…

…and the intricately appliquéd, embroidered and beaded cacti on the desert sands:

Eve Kovacs’ Spanish-inspired “Flamenco Rose” featured a beautifully quilted bolero jacket and matching purse. The understated red piping near the hem of the slacks pulls together the ensemble while keeping the focus on the jacket.

My mother was particularly taken with Kimberly Andert’s “Thrift Shop Muse” vintage ensemble. It is a true tribute to found treasures and would make any Second-Hand Rose proud:

Because of time constraints, we could not visit all the wonderful merchants that sell their goods at this show. I did, however, manage to squeeze in a few moments to ask Susan Christie permission to photograph her booth of fantastic vintage jewelry:

She offers a truly stunning collection of sterling silver and marquesite jewelry. I especially like the exquisite details of the sterling silver musical instruments:

This concludes my mini-series of posts on the Pacific International Quilt Festival. It was a privilege to showcase the astonishingly talented artists who were selected for this show. I would like to tip my hat to the Mancuso Brothers who always put on a grand show despite all the logistical and physical challenges they must face in presenting these precious works of art.

I hope you enjoyed strolling down the aisles with me and my mother.

Bakelite and Lucite in New York City

Since it's the height of the biggest shopping season of the year, I find myself recalling some of my favorite shopping trips during my three-week stay in New York City this past summer.

The book I used as my primary shopping guide is The Curious Shopper’s Guide to New York City Inside Manhattan's Shopping Districts, written by Pamela Keech. This tiny book is extremely well-organized and all the recommendations I followed were spot on.

It is organized by neighborhood, which in New York City means it is loosely organized by shopping category. She reveals Manhattan’s secrets behind finding the best antiques, fabrics, kitchenware, lingerie, jewelry, lighting, and flowers to name a few.

In addition to her excellent shopping suggestions, I appreciate the very practical information she provides like cross-streets for every address plus subway stops and delicious restaurant suggestions for every neighborhood she covers. Even in some of the more unsavory districts, I could count on Keech to recommend a place to grab a quick, yummy, and affordable lunch. The book fits comfortably in the palm of my hand so it was a snap to carry around in my Mary Poppins bag. I had four days before my son would join me and my shopping binge would come to a screeching halt. This book was the perfect guide to keep me focused.

On the day I went to the Chelsea district, Keech led me to a couple of vintage shops that specialized in vintage plastics like Bakelite, Lucite and celluloid.

Bakelite is an early form of plastic developed by Dr. Leo Baekeland in 1909 and Lucite is a resin created by DuPont in 1937. Celluloid is also one of the first plastics originally developed in England in the 1850’s. What I love about all of them is that they come in fantastic rich colors and they are often used in art deco pieces. Learn more about the care and feeding of these plastics here.

The first shop I visited was This ‘n’ That Collectibles:

You can’t miss the store because it has a bubblegum pink awning. Please don’t judge a store by its awning because the proprietor, Anita Stern, has impeccable taste for vintage accessories. I mean, look at these:

and these:

I think she raided Betty Boop’s jewelry stash here:

The second shop had the most amazing collection of bakelite handbags I have ever seen in my life!

These are the two I was seriously considering to take home with me. I like this one because I think it would be very versatile:

and I love the shape and amber colors of this one:

My problem is that I already own a kazillion handbags and I can't store another thing. I'd have to decide which of my handbags would get the heave-ho before I can move in a new one. I kept the shop's card in case I caved later in my trip. Alas, the rest of our stay was so frenzied, I did not have a chance to return.

Double, triple, quadruple alas! I just went to my New York folder and the card is not there! Believe me; no one is more upset about this than me. I tried googling to see if I could find the store - no success. It would help if Iremembered the shop's name, but I don't. I promise to update this post as soon as I find it. I will look in other likely places around my house. Maybe it ended up in the early Pleistocene strata of my paperwork. If anyone out there in the blogosphere recognizes this store, please leave word!